After London Fashion Week, Milan played host to some of the biggest Italian designers alongside fresh young talent, with Gucci opened the proceedings, followed by Prada, Fendi, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani.
Some critics pointed out the recession impacting Italian fashion in subtle ways. Several of the iconic Italian design houses are moving toward a more conservative design aesthetic.
For Spring Summer 2015 collections, many designers found the inspiration in old times, like 60’s and 70’s. Max Mara, Prada and Alberta Ferretti all took a trip down memory lane. Themes of independence, freedom and fight of established were spotted on Milan runway, which made us wondering whether there is a desire of returning to the years which seem more manageable.
Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2015 collection is inspired by Spain/Sicily. Sicily is the psychic island of Dolce & Gabbana dreams. As the designers pointed out in their studio, “The Spanish occupied Sicily for 300 years! There are so many shared things in our cultures—the music, the food, the decorated horsecarts!”
Paired with black net sheath, matador’s jacket, pencil skirt and black suit are the lace stocking and rich embroidered jeweled shoes. From little flat slippers, pumps studded with jewels to ankle boots decorated with mini leather flowers, the styles are Catholic religion related, classic, mid-height chunky heeled, colored in black and red with golden ornament. It’s a celebration of Spanish culture featuring bullfighters and grandmas. Watch Dolce & Gabbanna Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Fendi Spring Summer 2015 collection is inspired by their soon-to-be headquarter, 1953 Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome. To be more precise, the inspiration comes from the sky above the building.
“The incredible Roman sky, there’s nothing more beautiful,” said Venturini Fendi at back stage “The way it goes from blue to the reds and oranges of the sunset. That’s what informs the collection; lightness, air, the natural world—but projected into real life.”
The shoe designs are practical with gladiator vibe. The graceful arches of the building are interpreted into the sculptured high heels for sandals, which are finished with thin strips for the upper and elegant ankle straps. The youthful and joyful “flatform” sandals are studded with jewelries. The layered molded sole added a touch of athletic feel. Various shades of blues are used in the shoe collection, mixed with red and pink, like Roman sky.
Prada Spring Summer 2015 runway took place in front of 150 tons of lilac sand dunes poured over an ochre wall-to-wall fitted carpet at Prada HQ. The designer found the inspiration of 70’s and made an up to date transformation. It’s a dialogue between modernity and antiquity.
The collection featured brocade and patchwork, the modern usage of a craftsmanship from the past. The designer showed how a seductive new kind of dark beauty could be literally pieced together with the unpromising elements such as scraps of brocade and raw cotton. It’s a confrontation with antiquity. The old was made new.
The shoes are heavily wooden soled platform clogs with leather pieces studded around the upper sole, carrying on the same patchwork theme as the garment. The upper are pieced together with different materials or contrasting the floral fabric on the cover of heel and sole. Even the socks are pieced together in several colors. It’s a twist of old vs. new, and Miuccia Prada pulled off better than anyone else.
Max Mara Spring Summer 2015 Collection is inspired by 70’s, when “granny prints” were in fashion. The runway models are covered head to toe with prints of dots and dashes, mixed with daisies and tulips, or arty floral in pink or green.
Accessorized with 70’s midi-length dresses, skirts, and coats with piped edges are chunky heel knee high boots and sandals with printed dots or floral for uppers. Heels are painted in glossy white or black, which are matched with white or black single sole. The pull on boots look casual and cozy.
Click through the following gallery to view all the shoes at Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015: